Milan Fashion Week showcased a novel approach to menswear on Sunday. Designers Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons introduced a collection centered on reimagining jeans-inspired basics, utilizing leather and technical fabrics. Their goal was to create pieces for everyday wear, not just for fashion elites.
Prada’s New Uniform
The upcoming Prada collection for spring and summer features slim, cropped jackets and five-pocket trousers. These items are coupled with classic blazers or leather jackets, offering a cohesive and refined look. Despite the jeans inspiration, both designers have rarely worn them, with Prada never having worn a pair and Simons returning to them recently after years of favoring wool trousers.
Against expectations, five-pocket trousers paired with flat-pocket jackets define the collection’s new uniform. Crafted in luxurious, buttery leather, the styles appear in monochrome shades such as antique white, gray, burgundy, and turquoise. The runway presentation included rock guitar riffs, accentuating the modern vibe. Some pieces, suited to Europe’s current heatwave, are fashioned from nearly transparent white technical fabric. Only a few closing looks were made from actual denim.
Design and Accessories
Cropped shirts and knitwear vests display geometric patterns, complemented by clashing silk scarves tied around the waist. The brief selection of bags consists of vibrant pouches worn at the waist, sometimes affixed to robust belts. Pointy shoes with multiple Velcro straps complete the ensemble.
Streetwear Influence
Prada emphasized the aim for universal appeal, avoiding what she termed as “useless design” prevalent on other runways. Simons highlighted their intention to reconnect fashion with genuine street style, asserting that strong fashion ideas historically emerge “from the street.”
He described the silhouette as vertical, simple, sharp, and proud, with an abundance of white representing peace, hope, and purity. Simons believes this collection challenges the conventional perception of luxury in high fashion.
The presentation took place in a minimalist showroom with transparent seating, ensuring everyone had a clear view. The VIP section included notable figures such as NBA star Anthony Edwards, Troye Sivan, K-pop group ENHYPEN, and actor Louis Partridge. Excited fans gathered outside, enduring the early summer heatwave to see their favorite celebrities.