Indus Progressive Indian: A Fusion of Tradition and Innovation

Indus Progressive Indian, a restaurant renowned for its Midwest influences, skillfully honors North Indian family recipes. It elevates tradition with dishes like smoky masala beef brisket and fiery pork belly vindaloo, located in North Shore. In downtown Highland Park, Sukhu and Ajit Kalra opened Indus on February 18, 2025, following their successful debut in 2021 with Bhoomi, a casual Indian food stall in the Loop.

The couple opened their cozy fine dining restaurant at Highland Park, their hometown choice, in 2024. Indus was awarded our Readers’ Choice Award for Suburban Restaurant of the Year in 2025. Their goal was to pay tribute to the ancient Indus Valley civilization, a spice blending epicenter, while uniting the culinary traditions of modern India and the U.S., where they have lived half their lives as immigrants.

For Chicago’s palates, this includes a degree of meat consumption. Their understanding of cultural and religious beliefs is blended with a deep knowledge of heritage and flavor. Expert assistance was involved; a consulting chef formalized their home recipes while executive chef Vetri Selvaraj executed them beautifully. Selvaraj’s previous experience includes Ettan, a Michelin-recommended Californian Indian restaurant in Palo Alto.

Signature Dishes at Indus

At Indus, the tender masala brisket, paired with an earthy barbecue chutney, transformed from a backyard experiment into a signature dish. Ajit Kalra, originally from New Delhi, stated that beef is rarely consumed in India, especially among Hindus. To create their special dry rub spice, they utilized kasuri methi, or dried fenugreek leaves, with a chutney that combines a house-made barbecue sauce base, shallots fried in butter, Indian spices, and fresh tomatoes.

The brisket is smoked with a Smoke Daddy smoker from Gurnee, using a custom blend of apple and mesquite pellet wood. After trimming the beef and applying the dry rub, it is smoked for 14 to 18 hours. The same smoker is used for pork belly, eggplant, and daal for vegetarian dishes. The brisket is sliced into succulent pieces with blackened bark, served with a robust barbecue chutney and roasted potato wedges.

Mamma’s chole, a chickpea dish, is served with crispy poori bread, adapted from Sukhu Kalra’s mother. Sukhu Kalra, from Chandigarh, shared the recipe with her husband. It was a weekend family tradition to prepare this dish and fry poori fresh. At Indus, chickpeas are soaked overnight, pressure-cooked, then infused with masala, onions, tomatoes, and fresh tamarind pulp. The dish is garnished with slivered onions and jalapeños.

Pork belly with vindaloo sauce is a standout, taking nine days from preparation to plate. It begins with a seven-day cure, a dry rub, a day of smoking, and a final braise in lard. The emphasis is on showcasing the tangy, potent, spicy vindaloo sauce, prepared with a touch of port wine acknowledging its Portuguese roots.

Indus’ Cultural and Culinary Impact

Indus attracts Indian families and hot food enthusiasts who request spicier sauces, making pork belly a spotlighted modern dish. Accompanied options like cumin seed basmati rice or fragrant garlic naan contribute to the dining experience. Daal Indus, smoked black lentils with ghee, pairs excellently with butter naan cooked in their clay tandoor oven.

While most items are well-received, a duck kebab, though seasoned with house spices, lacks the moisture and depth seen in their menu. A Valrhona dark chocolate torte, designed as a pudding with blood orange granita, shows potential inspired by Indian desserts.

Service and Ambiance

The restaurant staff, skilled and consistent, have been with Indus since its inception. Nicol Cervantes, who joined after high school, delivers exceptional service. Indus aspires to fine dining, yet its setting, though personal, could benefit from professional interior design to reflect its culinary refinement.

Community and Challenges

The Kalras’ choice of location stems from a tragic experience during the 2022 Highland Park parade shooting. Facing community trauma, they cooked for neighbors and first responders, stepping in when the local economy shrank. Their presence reflects significant personal and financial investment.

Despite economic challenges and changes to their food hall, Bhoomi continues in food festivals and plans for a Loop location soon. Indus remains vital, celebrating its mission of unifying community through accessible Indian cuisine.

Indus Progressive Indian
617 Central Ave., Highland Park
312-282-8064
eatindus.com
Open: Tuesday to Thursday 4:30 until 8:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday until 9:30 p.m., Sunday 4 until 8 p.m., closed Monday
Prices: $36 (masala brisket), $15 (pork belly vindaloo), $22 (Mamma’s chole poori), $14 (kurkuri bhindi), $9 (Bhoomi lamb slider), $5 (rice), $12 (Valrhona torte), $7 (mango lassi), $13 (kokum mezcal cocktail)
Accessibility: Wheelchair accessible with restrooms on single level
Tribune rating: Excellent, three stars