Jane Arraf from NPR reports from Karbala, central Iraq, where annually over 20 million Shia Muslims gather to observe Arbaeen. This event marks the death of Imam Hussein, the Prophet Muhammad’s grandson, a crucial moment in Shia Islam that occurred 14 centuries ago.
Pilgrims come from across the globe, enduring scorching temperatures above 110 degrees Fahrenheit in August. Many Iraqi and Iranian pilgrims walk hundreds of miles to honor this solemn occasion. Despite the sorrowful nature of the commemoration, the atmosphere outside the shrines is vibrant and lively.
Images of Imam Hussein, with his soulful expression, are prevalent, sold widely as wall hangings. This year saw an increase in portraits of Iran’s former supreme leader, Ayatollah Ali Khamenei, viewed as a martyr in Iran since his assassination by the U.S. in February.
Unlike many large gatherings, the pilgrimage retains a noncommercial atmosphere. Weeks before the event, hospitality tents line the shrine area and highways leading to Karbala. Volunteers prepare and distribute free meals, ranging from bean stew to grilled chicken. Pilgrims receive food and water as they walk, and locals open their homes to travelers during their journey. The sense of community is remarkably strong, a tradition renewed every year.
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