Birding in Colombia: A Journey Through Untouched Forests

Traveling off the beaten path often leads to unexpected encounters, especially in the rich ecosystems of western Colombia’s mountains. Colombia boasts around 2,000 bird species, among the highest globally. This biodiversity results from its varied geography and, surprisingly, decades of conflict. Continuous fighting among the Colombian government, left-wing guerrillas, right-wing paramilitaries, and narco-traffickers preserved many habitats, making them inaccessible for human destruction.

Since a peace deal in 2016 between Colombia’s government and the FARC, the main guerrilla group, travel has become safer. Untouched forests, home to countless bird species, are now vital to Colombia’s ecotourism sector, which draws millions of dollars. Birdwatchers worldwide flock to observe species unique to Colombia. Tatamá National Park on the western Andes slope showcases lush rainforests and powerful rivers. Bird sounds fill the air in this remarkably wet region.

Before sunrise, a four-wheel drive carried us into dense forests where vibrant bird species like the Blue-grey Tanager and the Purple-throated Woodstar awaited. Diego Calderón Franco, a renowned Colombian birding guide, expressed his infectious enthusiasm during our tour. He pointed out the male violet-tailed sylph with excitement.

Nearby, we witnessed a territorial dispute between two male Empress brilliant hummingbirds. Despite their cute appearance, hummingbirds fight fiercely for resources. Birding involves constant vigilance. Diego mimicked bird calls, such as the Munchique wood wren, adding a musical touch to our journey.

Diego compared being a bird guide in Colombia to a Victorian-age explorer due to unexplored regions still revealing new bird species. Colombia’s troubled past left areas undeveloped, preserving their biodiversity. Previously inaccessible regions now inspire exploration.

During many violent decades in Colombia, over 450,000 civilians died, and 50,000 were kidnapped. Diego himself faced abduction by the FARC in 2004 as a graduate student on an expedition. Held hostage for 88 days, Diego maintained sanity by observing nature and noting bird sightings.

Diego’s father paid a ransom for his release, leading Diego to establish birding tours later. His favorite destination was Tatamá National Park’s Montezuma Rain Forest Ecolodge, owned by Michelle Tapasco. Michelle had fled eastern Colombia’s militia aggression in the 1990s, only to face FARC incursions. Her business succeeded against expectations, bolstered by growing interest in birding tours.

Colombia hosts over 160 hummingbird species. These unique birds fly not only forward but also up, down, and backwards, beating their wings up to 80 times per second. Diego’s bird-oriented cooperation with former FARC members fostered healing through shared birdwatching experiences.

Marcos Guevara, a former FARC guerilla, pursued photography, partly thanks to Diego’s workshops. Birdwatching offered ex-combatants new career and conservation paths. Despite ongoing challenges, Colombia draws increasing tourist interest.

Gary George and Joseph Brooks from Los Angeles pursued bird sightings, nearing an impressive count of 8,000 species. Notably, tattoos of favored birds adorned Brooks’ body, symbolizing his passion. Their search for the elusive Chami Antpitta added adventure to their travels.

At Tatamá National Park, bird preservation remains essential due to worldwide bird population declines. Michelle Tapasco aims to expand conservation efforts, inspired by her daughters who pursue biology and conservation careers. Birds transformed Michelle’s life, providing hope amid adversity.

On the final day, observing the Gold-ringed Tanager brought a sense of achievement. Diego explained the bird’s ecological significance in seed dispersal, illustrating its vital role in the ecosystem.

Experiencing Colombia’s unique birdwatching opportunities leaves a memorable impact, reminding us that even in remote locales, nature’s beauty and diversity thrive.