Halal Barbecue Thrives in Texas Amid Growing Muslim Influence

At 9 a.m. on a sweltering June Saturday, a crowd neared 100 outside Goldee’s BBQ in Fort Worth, Texas. Among them, Thanh Huynh, 30, occupied a spot since 6:30 a.m., preparing to spend lavishly on meats and sides. “I have a list and I’m going to spend lots,” he humorously noted. The enticing aroma of smoked meats wafted through the air.

Opened in 2020 by friends, Goldee’s quickly rose to fame. Named Texas Monthly’s top barbecue spot in the state and receiving a Bib Gourmand from Michelin Guide, the eatery’s reputation was solidified. It serves classic Texas fare—pork belly, sausage, ribs—and halal options like brisket, turkey, and lamb, adhering to Islamic dietary laws.

While Republican rhetoric targets Texas’ Muslim communities, halal barbecue spots like Goldee’s are thriving. Across the state, Muslim pitmasters receive recognition for their unique contributions. Notably, Yearby’s Barbecue in Plano and Levant Mediterranean BBQ in Houston offer halal menus.

Enthusiast Haris Ghaffar traveled an hour from Celina for Goldee’s halal offerings. Growing up in the 1990s, Ghaffar’s options were limited to halal fast-food items. Today, halal food is a mainstream multibillion-dollar sector, according to food writer Farhan Mustafa. “Halal food is part of American life,” Mustafa stated, asserting its cultural significance.

Muslims are shaping Texas barbecue, bringing diverse influences. Zain Shafi, co-owner of Goldee’s, previously operated a food truck, Sabar Barbecue, infusing Pakistani flavors. His menu includes tandoori smoked turkey and spices like bay leaf and coriander. Chef Nupohn Inthanousay incorporates his Laotian roots, introducing smoked Lao sausage with sticky rice.

Kafi BBQ in Irving, led by Salahodeen Abdul-Kafi, offers halal Wagyu beef and Iraqi spices. A former tech worker, Abdul-Kafi relocated to Texas, seeking a Muslim community. He perfected recipes and sourced local producers, aiming for top-notch barbecue.

“I want Kafi BBQ to make the best barbecue in Texas. Quality doesn’t need pork,” Abdul-Kafi asserted.

On a busy Sunday at Kafi BBQ, patrons flocked for items like the 13-spice Wagyu brisket. Local Jonathan Tate praised the unique flavors, even though he didn’t specifically seek halal food. Despite hostile political discourse in Texas, Abdul-Kafi views halal barbecue’s rise as a counterpoint to negative stereotypes.

Houston native Muhammad Sohail finds the restaurant reflective of his identity as both Texan and Muslim. For diners like Areeba Ali, of Indian descent, halal barbecue resonates widely, bridging communities. “The restaurant shows halal food is mainstream, crossing cultural divides,” Ali observed.

Mustafa highlighted the resilience of Muslim communities, noting that their contributions ensure halal food remains integral to American cuisine.

Fiona André contributed reporting to this article.