Analyzing ‘Tony’: A Biopic on Anthony Bourdain

The film Tony provides a coming-of-age narrative for the modern culinary icon, Anthony Bourdain. The setting is a single summer, which serves as a precursor to a richer tale. Directed and co-written by Matt Johnson, the film makes choices with Bourdain’s early life that might leave viewers wanting more.

Set in 1975, Bourdain’s journey in a Cape Cod kitchen is chronicled. Yet the charismatic, worldly Bourdain known later for his shows like Parts Unknown remains elusive. Many might argue that the film might have succeeded without Bourdain as its focal point.

Dominic Sessa plays the young Bourdain, portraying him as an awkward and brooding figure. This portrayal misses the joy, even when moments of awe present themselves, such as the abundant striped bass in the sea that summer.

Bourdain thoroughly discussed this period in his 2000 memoir, Kitchen Confidential, and revisited it on television. It was pivotal for him. However, the film’s focus on this time seems too narrow, leaving the broader narrative unfulfilled.

“I was — to be frank — a spoiled, miserable, narcissistic, self-destructive and thoughtless young lout, badly in need of a good ass-kicking.”

The quote from Kitchen Confidential opens the film. The story covers Bourdain’s journey from a dishwasher to a promising chef, inspired by the chaos of the kitchen and embarking on a dual passion: cooking and hard drugs.

The movie, despite depicting his culinary journey, skips Bourdain’s own heroin use, which he openly discussed in his works. The film includes a manufactured culinary mentor and fictitious events, which distract from the authentic narrative.

Antonio Banderas portrays this mentor. His character is a mix of spirituality and contradictions, missing the mentor’s essence described in Bourdain’s memoir.

Bourdain doesn’t transform into a cuisine advocate in the film. His passion is muted, despite statements like oysters tasting “of the future.”

Certain scenes appear compelling, such as interactions involving oysters or chef Eric Ripert’s brief appearance. Actor Emilia Jones adds charm as Bourdain’s love interest, and Leo Woodall captivates as his kitchen and drug associate, Sal.

Films focusing on cultural figures’ snapshots are popular now. Yet, Tony falls short as an origin story.

Tony is released by A24 and has an R rating for language, drug use, and sexual content. It runs for 106 minutes and received two out of four stars.